Friday, August 04, 2006

[life and times] dr. hawley harvey crippen [part 1of 2]


This is a magnetic tale of death and love, sin and virtue. There are two sides of the story – the physical, which is sordid, dreadful and revolting, and the spiritual, which is good and heroic.

Number 39 Hilldrop Crescent was near Camden Road, Holloway, North London. By 1910, the neighborhood had slightly gone down in the social scale but was still cobble-stoned, tree-lined and pert.

This smoky July morning, Inspector Dew alit from his carriage and, tipping the cabbie, ascended to jingle the doorbell. A brass plaque beside the bell read, "CRIPPEN". A small, delicate girl, of no more than 16 years of age, answered, "Oui, monsieur?" Dew hoped she understood English.

"Is your master at home?" the detective asked.

"Mashter?" she was quizzical.

Dew had no idea what the French word was for doctor, so he asked, "Yes, Monsieur Crippen. Is he inside? This she understood. From the top of the staircase he now heard approaching boot steps and Doctor Hawley Harvey Crippen entered.

He was a small man in his mid-forties with a fresh complexion, light brown hair, which he brushed carefully over a bald spot, and a straggly sandy mustache above a receding chin," explains Tom Cullen . "His gray eyes, which were magnified slightly by gold-rimmed spectacles, were undoubtedly his most remarkable feature.

"Hello." The little man – no more than 5'5" -- held out his whitish hand. The policeman shook it and found, while doing so, that it was not as weak as it looked. "Dr. Hawley Crippen?" Dew inquired. The other nodded, not sure whether to smile or frown.

"I need to grab just a little of your time to ask you a few questions."

"Oh?" Crippen answered. "Why don't we step into the front parlor, if that’s all right."

The inspector followed the doctor into a room of tasteful furniture and potted palms. There was a definite scent of a woman's fine perfume – but not the maid’s. Noticing trifles were all part of his work, having been a professional investigator for the past 23 years.

The detective liked the fact that Crippen didn't seem at all nervous. Yes, Dew thought to himself, nothing wrong here. "Dr. Crippen, first, allow me to express my condolences over the recent death of your wife, Belle. I understand she is sorely missed by your friends."

The other nodded in appreciation.

"But, because of her passing, there is, I'm sorry to say, a mystery. Dr. Crippen, a number of your wife's professional acquaintances have doubts about her sudden trip to America, which caused her sudden death abroad."

"The Ladies' Guild," Crippen nodded.

"They are...what?... actresses, as was your wife?"

"Music hall people, mostly. My wife, she was a singer, not very famous, mind you, but she enjoyed it. They raise money for charities, mostly."

"Remarkable," Dew whispered, "I can go back to Scotland Yard now and reassure them that nothing out of the ordinary has occurred."

"Inspector, are they saying I've killed my wife or something?"

Dew was surprised. "Actually, they claim that she had many commitments with them in February and thought it out of character for her to flee without a personal word. "Doctor, I must be direct: your living here with another lady. Miss Le Neve, I believe her name is..."

Crippen remained unshaken. "I know...I know it does look suspicious, Inspector... may we talk man to man?"

"Please!" Dew urged.

"Inspector—" he paused, breathed deeply, and went on, " I admit: I lied. My wife did not to go to America to visit a sick relative. She did not die. That was all a story."

Dew sat upright. "Then where is she?"

"Oh. she's in America all right, but... she left me for another man, Inspector." He looked glum. "We never got along, her and I, guess I couldn't please her...in many ways. She told me she was leaving for Chicago, but Lord knows if she really went there or not. Bruce Miller's his name."

"Then there have been marital problems for some time?"

"For years, Inspector."

Dew smiled softly.

"I...I panicked when she left that night in February, for I could see that scandal could ruin my professional standing. I was probably more ashamed of myself, really. No man likes to think he can't hold on to his wife."

"I see." Dew pondered,. "What about your friend, Miss Le Neve, who...shares your quarters here? Does she know Belle exists?"

"She...she believes like the rest of my friends that Belle has died."

The detective grimaced. "Dr. Crippen, do you think it's right …"

"Inspector, Ethel and I have become as man and wife. We love each other to the bone. She knows the history of Belle and I," the other answered, "Belle's unfaithfulness to me, our quarrels. "

"I'm sure Miss Le Neve is a fine lady."

"And a wonderful help in my business!" Crippen perked. "She's my secretary, you know. In fact," he glanced at his pocket watch, "she's at the office as we speak, catching up on some early work. I was about to go to her."

"Yes, well, first off, Doctor, we need to find Belle. A formality, you understand.

"I agree wholeheartedly!" Crippen replied. "Inspector...you think I'm a mouse, don't you?"

"A mouse? Oh, you mean in Shakespeare."

Dew was satisfied. He drew up a quick statement, which Crippen read and signed, and the detective felt it had been a good morning's work.

Crippen shut the door, and exhaled, deeply. His head throbbed. He remembered how he had cut out her heart and had thrown it in the canal after he had killed her and buried her beneath the house.

Belle had wanted glitter and tinsel, he’d wanted to be thought of as something more than just a little man.

Hawley Harvey Crippen was born near the Coldwater River in Michigan, U.S.A. As a child, he would tell his friends he was going to be a physician. After graduating from the University of Michigan, he earned an M.D. then relocated to New York City as an eye and ear specialist. While there, Crippen wooed and won Irish Charlotte Bell, a nurse but she died of apoplexy in January, 1892. He returned east and met Belle.

To a man like Crippen, raised with the idea that work, work, work is all that matters, Belle was a strange and alluring animal. 30-year-old Hawley Crippen fell for her high spirits and free sexuality. Belle, in turn, felt attracted to Crippen by his profession. Hawley Crippen, M.D. could buy her way up. Leaving home at 16 years old, she’d been taught by high-class teachers in exchange for sex. But, fate can be darkly comical. Almost immediately after their marriage, Crippen’s branch of medicine became unfashionable, money had run dry. Belle, stuck at home ironing, suffocated slowly out of her element.

For a while, Crippen practised dentistry. Then Professor Horace Munyon gave him the chance of a lifetime: to establish and manage the first of Munyon's overseas offices. He was going to London, England, guaranteed a salary of $10,000 a year – exorbitant for 1897. Belle covered her wrists and huge cleavage in gems and expensive baubles. She met a swaggering man-about-town named Bruce Miller.

Belle went on stage but failed to charm her nightly audiences – one evening they booed her – and the production closed within the week. Her voice matched her personality, and was loud, vulgar and lacking in feminine charm. Short and big, she sang lyrics such as, "I'm called little Buttercup, dear little Buttercup, though I could never tell why." Audiences laughed.

But Belle loved the nightlife and Bruce Miller proved to be everything that her Hawley was not; he was all muscle, with a beastly-grunt that a woman like Belle desired. Men. She loved men. It wasn't that Crippen was cold to her needs, but she continued to flirt – and sometimes wander home at sunrise, with poor excuses.

Things might have been different if he’d loved her. Or if she’d loved him. They either argued incessantly for days and nights or would sink into unemotional statements of Good Morning and Good Night. When they had sex, it was mechanical.

The one time that Crippen did show support for her, he listed himself as her business manager but Professor Munyon heard about it and Crippen was instantly fired from his $10,000 a year position. To make matters worse, he found letters addressed to Belle from Bruce Miller, who signed off, "Love and Kisses to Brown Eyes." Belle's reaction was not repentant, but defensive.

He found a new job. Monthly income fell far below what he had earned at Munyon's, but the job did have its benefits. For one, he was given a beautiful office of Chippendale furnishings and another benefit was pretty and elegant Ethel Le Neve.

Ethel was 18 years old when she met Hawley Crippen; he was 39. A romantic relationship eventually developed between them, though it took nearly a year. Ethel took her place as Crippen's private secretary and bookkeeper.

Born in Diss, Norfolk, Ethel liked climbing trees, or playing marbles, or shooting with a catapult. For dolls or other girlish toys she had no longing. But, underneath the dirty cheeks of a tomboy a sentimental girl blossomed, dreaming of far-off places and knights in shining armor, and she fell in love with Crippen's noble maturity, something that boys her age lacked. Ethel found Crippen at all times galante. He would treat her to dinner at her favorite restaurant; and, through it all, he never once ventured beyond the role of gentleman.

Their conversations remained professional; even when alone, he never behaved inappropriately.
To Crippen, Ethel had everything Belle lacked – she was sweet, considerate and graceful. She was no beauty, but she had the kind of face that made a married woman clutch her husband's arm a little tighter. Her mouth could be either tragic or sensual. She made him feel like a man again but most important of all, she was the one person with whom he could discuss his shameful and humiliating home life. They fell in love -- deeply, passionately, hopelessly in love. By 1903, the boss and his secretary were inseparable. At least in spirit.

On the other hand, there was still Belle. Belle hadn't noticed. She had joined the Music Hall Ladies' Guild, whom Crippen found to be old hens. In September, 1905, they moved to 39 Hilldrop Crescent, Holloway, for £52 per year. A coal cellar lay just below street level behind the garden steps. Belle redecorated her home. The lampshades were pink, the vases were pink, and even the lights were pink. Crippen found her taste nauseating at times, but learned to ignore it and went with Ethel.

The lovers wined, dined, and kissed but that was all. Ethel and Hawley were both brought up with old-time religion and dared not commit adultery. Crippen remained timid in that direction, promising but not delivering his freedom from Belle.

However, in late 1906, things changed. Belle, it seemed, had changed and had gone back to being modest. The Crippens now took in lodgers for extra money, two German boys. One afternoon, December 6, 1906, Crippen came home from his office earlier than usual and found one of them in bed with Belle. Rushing to Ethel, she gave him her full passion. They awoke in the light of morning in Ethel's bedroom and they referred ever after to December 6, 1906, as their "wedding day".

Even though Crippen continued to live with Belle, he was a happy man. All allegiance to her had vanished. He lived for the day he could cast her off like a dead canary. She had become suspicious, and when she demanded to know who the other woman was, he remained silent.

People began to talk. When Dr. Crippen left Drouet's for another position, he took his secretary with him. Knowing that he’d once practised dentistry in New York, Ethel persuaded him to open a dental practice in a fashionable locale. If Belle hadn't known who her husband's "other woman" was until that time, she knew now. Ethel and Belle had met in person a few times. She raged and bullied and he could bear the ill treatment of his wife no longer.

Things were coming to a head. One morning Ethel admitted that she was pregnant. Crippen took the news as she’d hoped he would, with elation. Although she miscarried, Belle knew that Ethel was in her late twenties and could easily conceive again. Belle bet her booties she would try. This time, though, the wife would stop her. Despite her own adulterous wanderings, Belle did not take "a philosophic view of her husband's liaison".

Towards the close of 1910, their life fell apart. Belle hoped to either scare Crippen out of the house or enrage him so that he would divorce first. Then, her conscious clear, she could find another Bruce Miller. But, the experts agree, Belle may have gone too far, driving Crippen to desperation, calling the beloved Ethel whore and worse. Home-wrecker? Trollop? Whore?

To a man so tempestuously in love with a woman, there was no forgiving those words said of his angel. Belle had crossed the line; she had insulted and had threatened him. No, he would never let those insults pass to public ear. He would die first... or perhaps Belle would.

At the stroke of midnight, New Year's, 1910, Ethel Le Neve and her aunt were miles away from Hawley Crippen. At the same time in London, the Crippens had dinner guests but Hawley, wasn't going to make a wish. He would make his own in 1910.

On January 17, Crippen ordered five grains of the poison hydrobromide of hyoscine from chemists whom he dealt with through his profession. The drug was so lethal that if injected in a quantity above a quarter-grain it could kill instantly. Two weeks later Belle disappeared.

Because Hawley Crippen never confessed to the crime, no one has ever been able to explain in detail what really did happen that morning of February 1, 1910. There remains only conjecture. Here is one such conjecture:

"Crippen mixes a drink for his wife before retiring, something he is known to do. But, this time, he laces it with the drug. His plan is to wait many hours then, feigning shock, telephone a personal friend and colleague, Dr. John S, Burroughs, informing him that he has found Belle dead in bed. Crippen had told Burroughs in mid-December that he had been worried about his wife's health, as she had been feeling ill lately.

Belle does not react to the toxin as expected; she begins to scream. Crippen realizes that he has administered too large of a dose. A half-grain can kill, a little more can cause vomiting, hallucination and lunacy. Crippen panics. Afraid that neighbors will rouse from their beds by her screams, he panics and grabs a revolver. The doctor shoots his wife in the head.

With a corpse on his hands, Crippen must dispose of the evidence, the body itself. The only solution is dissection. It must be performed in Crippen's enameled bathtub, next to the bedroom.

Knowing at this point that he will bury her in his cellar, which isn't very large – two metres by three in fact – he reduces her body into parts, cutting off arms, legs and head. Belle was a thick woman so he literally fillets her, and in the morning he will pulverize what is left. After wrapping the torso in a pair of his own pajamas, he buries it in the cellar, just below the back staircase. He returns to the bathroom, gathers up her limbs, head and severed organs, including her heart, and stores them in the dustbin.

It has long been daylight. He throws his bloody clothes into the fire, and then dozes a little. At the time he would normally get up for work, he rises. Waking, he checks for traces of blood that he may have overlooked through tired eyes. Dressing, shaving, he heads to work, arriving at the dental office on time, 9 a.m.

He acts as if nothing has happened.

Part 2 continues here.

Thursday, August 03, 2006

[oil and gas] from australia to russia – oil is the key

Douglas Adams, in Dirk Gently’s Holistic Detective Agency, wrote of the fundamental interconnectedness of all things. So what possible connection could there be between today’s interest rate crisis in Canberra and Turkmenistan’s oil outlet dilemma?

Indirectly, a lot.

The Australian Reserve Bank decision to raise interest rates a quarter percentage point today is extremely damaging in the public perception and the average Australian's panic, more common ... read and comment here.

[world] a ceo in russia makes more money


The average Russian laborer may earn less than a tenth of a Western European worker's wages. But Russia's fat cats face no such indignity, netting even more than their Western European counterparts, a new survey indicates.
Thanks to favorable tax conditions and a booming economy, executives at Russia's biggest companies on average take home 750 euros ($890) more than Western bosses, according to a survey by Watson Wyatt, a global consultancy firm.Average after-tax pay for Russian managers was calculated at 108,750 euros, as opposed to 108,000 euros for Western European executives.
The report surveyed 125 companies in Russia.
"This is a phenomenon almost exclusively within executive positions," said John Lewis, who authored the report, by telephone from Brussels. "Further down there is still a big gap between how much professionals are paid in the West and Russia."
The average salary for mid-level managers is anywhere between $20,000 and $70,000, another study found earlier this year. That survey, released by human resources firm Ancor, interviewed 68 companies in Russia.
Annual wages across Russia last year averaged some 66,000 rubles, or about 1,900 euros, according to official statistics.
A limited pool of people with the right experience and talent to fill executive positions in Russia plays a part in driving up wages. However, low income taxes play a greater role in giving Russia's top managers the upper hand over colleagues further west, Lewis said.
"In Germany net pay at the executive level is 55 to 65 percent of the paycheck because of taxation," he said, while Russian bosses take home 87 percent thanks to the 13 percent flat tax.
As the economy grows, the trend has been for the gap in Russian and Western gross wages to narrow considerably.
A recent study from PricewaterhouseCoopers showed that executives in Moscow companies with a turnover of over $50 million earn a median of $109,000 before taxes, with average annual bonuses of 20 percent. The Russian edition of Forbes magazine on Thursday published a list of the country's 100 richest people, including 36 billionaires. That is a ninefold increase since Forbes first published the names of four Russian billionaires in 1997.
Businesses catering to high earners are catching on to the fact that some Russians make a lot. On Thursday, HSBC bank announced it would open a Moscow office to offer private banking services for well-to-do Russians.
"As the Russian economy continues to grow, the number of big net worth individuals will grow very fast," Richard Tickner, HSBC's Russia country manager, told Bloomberg. "There is a lot of competition, but this is a growth market."
Forbes added 11 new Russian billionaires to its list of wealthy Russians since the U.S. edition of the magazine released a list of the world's richest people in March. The editor of Forbes in Russia, Paul Klebnikov, said this addition resulted from the magazine using market capitalization figures from mid-April to evaluate Russian moguls -- a period when the stock market was at its peak. Not surprisingly perhaps, ordinary Russians complain they earn too little while their bosses earn too much.
According to a survey released by Fond Obshchestvennoye Mneniye on Thursday, 85 percent of workers who responded said they are not paid enough. Twenty-three percent of those respondents held the state of the economy responsible, while 17 percent blamed their higher-ups, who they said are "the only ones with high wages" and "thieves," Interfax reported. A startling 53 percent of the 3,000 adults surveyed said they were unemployed.
By Simon Ostrovsky, Moscow

[living] today's scoop - the pedant-general in ordinary

EXCLUSIVE! SCOOP!
GARISH, SENSATIONALIST JOURNALISM!

Some have suggested, unkindly, that I’m too soft by half in my treatment of my victims and that I never ask the hard questions.

‘Where’s the dirt?’ they ask.

That may be so but let me turn this around and say that my brief is to present a profile, not a warts-‘n-all expose. I’m hardly placed to do the latter and besides, I have no intention of being blackballed from the Garrick Club. I’m a peaceful man, after all.

In its own small way, it’s the selection of whom to present on this page which constitutes the hard line. In the interests of quality, I present only the best bloggers.

And so to today’s scoop and in my tackiest manner I announce, ladies and gentlemen:

Here, never before published in any blog, never seen before on the web, his photographed visage finally, gobsmackingly exposed to a shell-shocked public, is … is … wait for it … the Pedant-General in Ordinary!!!!!

Yes, it is he*, ladies and gentlemen - Her Majesty’s esteemed protector. The scourge of the blogging world, who has fellow bloggers either quaking in their boots or running for cover, sometimes both … and his real name is … is … er, I don’t rightly know. I didn’t actually get that far.


The Pedant-General in Ordinary.

What’s the man about? Well, his own site gave your intrepid investigator the starting point on that:

The Pedant-General is, by his own description: white, male, heterosexual and married, we can safely assume that I am basically stuffed. I might as well give up now.

But then, seeing as I am also from a landed-gentry family, public school educated, an Oxbridge graduate, licenced to keep and use a shotgun, a practising Anglican communicant, lately a Commissioned Officer in Her Majesty's Armed Forces, paying to educate my children privatelyand right-libertarian in outlook, I have got nothing to lose really.....

Thersites comments: Come the revolution, P-G, you'll undoubtedly be one of the first up against the wall, blindfolded, last cigarette etc.

Even
Wiki has something to say: The Pedant General in Ordinary is here to boldly maintain the purity of the English language!

The P-G in O has helpfully published a
Manifesto:

Whilst much of the origins of the appointment process for the post of Pedant-General in Ordinary are lost in the mists of time (and even those bits that are not remain cloaked in secrecy of the highest order), we can say with certainty that candidates do not have to suffer the ignominy of popular election. I shall pass, lightly, over the ignominy that candidates do have to suffer.

However, I understand that it is customary in a blog of this sort to "set out one’s stall" and to this end, I publish here a manifesto. This, I might add, is not an exhaustive set of policies. But** then, we might reasonably ask, is any manifesto? At least you may be confident that I will stick to this.

Flogging Offences:

· Use of the Grocer's Apostrophe;
· Making any of these basic logical errors;
· Starting paragraphs in a newspaper article with the word "And". Especially if you are a politician;
· Blaming the weapon, rather than the person wielding it;
· Driving in the middle lane of a busy motorway without good cause;
· Advocating Socialism as a means for organising the relationships between communities larger than a small farm;
· Confusing correlation with causation.

Flogging Offences:

Such flogging to be administered on the steps of the perpetrator's club. This is separate category of crime, where it is important that a visible example is set:
· Advocating Socialism for communities larger than a small farm, when one is in a position of power;
· Advocating Creationism when one ought to know better;
· Inviting, on live television, an evidently distressed relative to advocate a ban on whatever it was that killed the recently deceased person in question;
· Confusing "equality of outcome" with "equality of opportunity".

Hanging Offences:

Let's not beat about the bush: We have to make a stand and stop this dangerous nonsense.
· Preferring "equality of outcome" over "equality of opportunity";
· Advocating Creationism when one is in charge of educational policy or children or both;
· Moral Equivalence;
· Unwarranted use of the split infinitive.

But there is another, carefully veiled side to the P-G in O and he will not thank me for revealing this altruistic side; however, this is the sort of e-mail he wrote in my direst hour of template-altering need:

... remembering of course, to change "Blog Roll or whatever you want this to say" to whatever you want the section header for your blogroll to be. (For ref, mine is "Opinion is Free", long before the Guardian shamelessly nicked it) and to change the "yourusername" to whatever your BLOGLINES username is. I have highlighted the bits you need to edit in bold to make it easier for you to see. Then save your template, republish your blog and retire to the mess for tea and medals.

Do fellow bloggers see him as the scourge of the blogosphere? Tim Worstall, after a scathing
analysis of an airline failure:

admits:

The P-G uncovers a very clever piece of manipulation. This is the problem with regulatory organisations, they are subject to capture by those who would benefit most from the rules being drawn up one way rather than another.

And the P-G’s original
point he was originally making?

Given the clarity - nay, purity! - of the stream of knowledge and harmony that is mathematics, your monoglot Pedant-General is exceptionally loathe even to paddle in the stagnant, murky and polluted sewer of economics. However, he is thrilled, not just to spot a monstrous howler as this, but to beat Tim Worstall to it at that.

In order to provide a contigency fund against a one-off event - that of the failure of an airline - and of a largely fixed liability - that of the total number of passengers that an airline could carry at any one time - he proposes an entirely variable surcharge. This seems to be a staggeringly basic error.

Being one of the military fraternity, he is likely to take up his cudgel
to defend same:

Your jingoistic and "gung-ho" Pedant-General is an ardent supporter of HM armed services and the courageous men and women who take HM's shilling. He is less enamoured with the snake oil salesmen who purport to be their political masters. The current minister of defence is an exemplary case in point. This man wouldn't recognise integrity or duty to your men if it came up and slapped him on the top of his bald head.

But is the P-G in O relevant? Does he have anything to say on the crisis which is
the Middle-East? I hope I don’t misrepresent him with these, his own words:

Israel has nothing to gain by a further occupation of Lebanon, other than to subdue the militants. But, now that those nice gentlemen in Iran have equipped Hezbollah with the longer range Fajr rockets, Israel is going to have to occupy a damn sight more than they did last time to provide an effective buffer zone to protect Israel-proper. I can't see how a ceasefire would be in their gift.

So what is the P-G in O - his roots, so to speak? Is he an Englishman? A Scot? Irish? From the Isle of Man? A clue can be found in
this little piece:

Nonsense. The adjectives apply across the board. Scots, English and Welsh people are ALL British. Scots are not English. English people are not Scots. But they are both British.

To give a simple example (for the sake of argument and without prejudice to your real actual place of birth), you are Pennsylvanian. A resident of LA could be described as Californian. But you are both American. The simplest analogy is that Scotland, Wales, England and Northern Ireland are similar to States in the US, with the UK being at the level of Federal Govt.

The analogy is far from perfect since we do not have the strict separation of powers or subsidiarity that is enshrined in the US Constitution, but you get the gist. Creditting California specifically with an achievement of the US as a whole, or worse still of Pennsylvania, would be obviously wrong.

This is a howler of such epic proportions that it profoundly discredits the academic merit of the site in my eyes. It displays an ignorance of things British that I can scarcely credit. An apology and promise to do some fairly basic research would be in order: the updates with the text of emails almost suggest that there is debate on this or a legitimate difference of opinion. There is not.

(Disclaimer: I am a Scot, but I'm proud of my British Passport...)

And my analysis? The P-G in O does his darndest to ‘expunge’ the web of its ‘woolly thinking’ and it’s probably true to say that he’s the scourge of the blogosphere; but what the man fails to disguise is that he is actually, all things considered, really a very nice chap - good people, as they say in America when referring to third person, singular.

The Pedant-General in Ordinary.

[* he ...... James Higham defends to the death the right to adopt subject as object in this particular personal pronoun.]
[**But .......I'm going to take up with the P-G in O the clear use of a conjunction at the beginning of a sentence.]

Wednesday, August 02, 2006

[world] asset swapping - shell, exxon, bp and sinopec

Exxon itself is a particularly interesting company, not least because of its xx antecedents. In many ways it is entirely innocent but being who they are, they are on a hiding to nothing. They have invested in the environment, they have committed to sustainable development and the company itself laments:

Exxon stands as the tallest lightning rod for critics who say the oil industry is profiting at consumers’ expense, and parting payments to its former chairman and chief executive, Lee Raymond, have provoked criticism. Exxon officials said they don’t expect the political anger toward the industry to let up soon.
Article here.

[general] niagara falls - which side is best


Peter Mandel, of the Washington Post, wrote: To know Niagara Falls these days is to know two mist-split shores: the Canadian city and the American town. Newlyweds still book rooms in both, and some say the negative ions from the rush of the falls cause feelings of attraction. But if you're not into ions, there are all sorts of other, mostly positive lures, like the Canadian side's sleek casinos and space needle towers, and the U.S. side's Italian bakeries and a state park, the nation's oldest, by Frederick Law Olmsted. He then proceeds to dissect both sides as dispassionately as he is able. Which is better?